We start by measuring what's actually on the door - spring wire size, wind length, drum diameter, track gauge - instead of assuming a 2024 door's parts will drop into a 1978 frame. If the original hardware is still sound, we service and re-tension rather than replace, because a working original part beats a loosely-matched new one.
Where the track has racked out of plumb from years of an off-balance door, we re-square it before touching the spring, since setting new tension on a crooked track just moves the wear somewhere else. Any bearing or hinge that's seized from rust gets replaced outright - we don't force old steel back into motion and hope.
For households in this income range, a $91,397 median, we generally find full replacement makes more sense than repair once the opener, track, and springs are all original and all failing close together - patching three worn systems costs more over a year than one new one. We'll tell you straight when that's the math, and when it isn't.